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How to paint a wooden deck: step-by-step instructions

How to paint a wooden deck: step-by-step instructions

Exterior renovationsHow to paint a wooden deck: step-by-step instructions

If you’re one of the lucky ones, your home may have a beautiful outdoor space or backyard. A popular fixture in many yards is the patio. Also known as a deck, whether large or small, wood is commonly used as a material to construct these beautiful features.

As you may know, your wood will need to be treated in order to be safe for outdoor use while also maintaining its longevity.

In most cases, this will involve staining, priming and painting. Painting may obscure the surface of the wood, but is an excellent option to breathe new life into an older surface or give a unique touch to a new one.

For a step-by-step guide, we met with one of the contractors in our network, Felix Deblois-Beaucage, as he and his team were working on a wooden deck renovation project. Here, we’ll go over the five main steps of this process.

5 steps to paint a patio

1- Clean the surface of the wooden deck

Before you begin painting, you’ll need to be sure that you're working on a clean surface. Be sure to fix any popped nails or screw heads that may have come loose. Also, if you find large cracks throughout the surface of the wood, these will need to be filled in before painting. 

This can be completed with epoxy putty and then stained to match the surrounding deck boards. This step is especially important when working on a deck you plan to use for a number of years.

If your deck has several years of dirt, grime, and dust build-up, a deep cleaning process with a specific wood-safe cleaner is necessary. If the cleaning process has dampened the wood, let it dry before the next step.

Sometimes the drying process can take up to 48 hours and painting any earlier than this can compromise the wood. Otherwise, removing dust with a dry cloth should be a good enough treatment to the surface.

Décapage et nettoyage patio bois_stripping and cleaning wooden deck

2- Sand the wood

Once the surface of the wood has been treated for holes while also being clean and dry, you'll need to sand it with 50-grit sandpaper. This is an important step because any trace of old paint, primer, or stain should be removed from the surface of the wood before you go forward with adding another paint or primer. 

Not to mention that sanding the surface works to open up the pores in the wood, which will improve the new paint or stain adhesion. If there's no paint, varnish, or stain on the wood, we recommend using 100 or 120 grit sandpaper. An electric sander is another tool that will make this step easier and speed up the process.

For our specific project, the contractor needed to sand twice to remove the old stain. In some cases, including when working on very old surfaces, you may have to use a chemical stain and sealer remover or a thermal removing technique. If the product you want to apply is sheer, this sanding step is paramount, as wood will show through the finish. 

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3- Apply a primer

Since the surface we’re working with is wood, it's advised to use a primer. Although some paints now come with a primer mixed in, we’d suggest that you opt for a separate primer. A separate primer will help to seal the wood and greatly improve the adhesion level of the finished paint. Therefore, the final result will be more durable.

This type of primer or sealer can easily be found in any local hardware or specialized paint store. Make sure to protect the surrounding surfaces with painter's tape or a plastic sheet, and this includes any vinyl cladding or deck accessories.

For elements not on the surface level of the deck, such as rails, handrails or caps, use a brush to stain these surfaces. When it comes to the rest of the deck’s surface, we’d recommend using a roller, as it will be able to cover more of an area in less time. Then, simply follow the manufacturer's recommendations for application methods as well as drying time.

peinture patio_deck paint

4- Apply paint to your wooden deck

Only when the primer is completely dry should you begin the painting process. For this specific project, two coats of opaque 100% acrylic paint were used. As we mentioned above, use a roller to apply the paint. The workers in this project used one for large areas and a paintbrush for corners and edges. Once the entire surface was covered, they let it dry according to the paint manufacturer's instructions.

When it comes to the painting of your deck, you could also cover the wood using a sealant or a stain. Do bear in mind that when working with a stain, anywhere between one and three coats may be necessary. However, this will be dependant on the type of stain you apply. 

Use your personal judgment when it comes to deciding on the number of coats. Remember that paints and stains may dry differently than they appear going on.

dark wood deck

5- Drying time

After you’ve applied the right amount of paint coats to your deck's wood surface, you’ll then need to let it dry for at least 24 hours. Drying time may be dependant on the weather and this is an extremely important factor to consider. Before you start this project, we’d recommend checking out your local weather forecast to reveal the 24-48 hours during which you plan on undertaking this project. This is to make sure it’s clean, dry and not too humid. Unfortunately, if it happens to start raining before the paint dries, you may have to paint all over again.

Also, avoid painting on significantly hot days as high temperatures decrease paint adhesion. For optimal results, take the time to complete each step properly and respect weather conditions.

After the painting job

wood deck stained

For our contractor, this project lasted three days. For you, it’s possible that it could take more or less time. If you're looking for a professional and refined result, we’d suggest hiring experienced contractors to carry out the job.

Lastly, we'd like to mention that if you're working with a stain, it's recommended to re-stain your deck every 1-3 years. This will continue to protect the surface and help the structure to last longer. If you use paint instead, it is advisable to repaint every 2 or 3 years.

If you do not have a patio and want to build one, read our article Deck Building Materials and Construction.

Would you like to have an estimation of the cost of your new deck? Try our cost calculator!

Get 3 renovation quotes for your wooden deck painting project

Renoquotes.com can help you get quotes to paint or stain a wooden deck. If you submit your project to us, we’ll put you in contact with the most suitable contractors for you. Fill in the form on our homepage (only a few minutes), and you will receive quotes from companies that are specialized in exterior painting.

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Last modified 2023-08-31

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SoumissionRenovation.ca 09 Aug 2023

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Fibre-reinforced concrete can be used for all kinds of work, from foundation work to wall-building, with footing and columns in between. The type of fibre used in its making determines its characteristics, and thus its use. Continue reading to learn more about the different types of fibres providing the ideal features based on the structural building needs. Are you looking for general contractors for your renovation project? Fill in our form to be connected with top-rated contractors! Why Use Fibre-Reinforced Concrete: Pros and Cons Source: Canva Fibre-reinforced concrete has at least 6 advantages since it’s: Easy to use Ideal for large-scale building sites Lightweight Durable Ductile Adhesive Other advantages could be listed, including its fire resistance. However, those advantages aren’t typically associated with fibre-reinforced concrete, but more with the use of distinct fibres. Therefore—and as we’ll explain in further detail below—fibre-reinforced concrete’s ability to withstand flames is directly linked to the use of polypropylene fibres. Nevertheless, fibre-reinforced concrete still has drawbacks as it’s: More expensive Not as water-resistant Can be less compression-resistant (as seen with plastic fibres) Not as capable of withstanding earthquakes Once again, fibre-reinforced concrete drawbacks are largely determined by the type of fibre used. Types of Fibre-Reinforced Concrete Source: Canva Ultra-high performance UHPC (Ultra High-Performance Concrete) is a type of concrete made using short fibres, meaning fibres that have been designed to reduce cracking and improve fire resistance. These synthetic or organic fibres are added to the concrete mixture, thereby providing increased compression resistance, from 150 to 250 MPa, compared to 30 MPa for regular concrete. Depending on the types of fibres used, fibre-reinforced concrete can completely negate the use of passive rebar. This is seen with structural concrete, which we’ll further detail at the end of this article. Generally speaking, the main characteristics of UHPC are: Low permeability Great mechanical resistance Enhanced strength and ductility Low creep Durability High density It shouldn’t be confused with HPC (High-Performance Concrete), since UHPC is a lot more resistant, as well as a lot drier, more fibre-reinforced, and has increased tensile strength. Shotcrete Sprayed fibre-reinforced concrete can be made with: Steel fibres (20 to 50 kg/m³) Polymer fibres (5 to 9 kg/m³) Said fibres render the mixture with: Superior bond strength Increased shear strength Ductility Less spalling when exposed to intense heat (fire) However, all dosages must undergo testing to ensure the concrete meets the necessary characteristics required to achieve a predetermined structural goal. What type of synthetic fibres can be added? Source: Canva Fibre-reinforced concrete is made using additional fibres of various natures (bamboo, jute fibre, plastic, etc.). However, nowadays, the majority of added fibres used are grouped under synthetic fibres: Fibreglass Polypropylene Carbon Plastics Metals Fibreglass Fibreglass reinforces tensile strength. It limits the need for steel rebar, but also increases the overall strength against: Weakening Flexural stress Tensile forces Impacts Cracking Regarding the last point, fibreglass directly impacts the size of cracking by reducing widths. However, unlike steel fibres, which we’ll cover below, fibreglass doesn’t improve concrete’s compression strength. Polypropylene Shields against chemical and bacterial infestations Improves compression strength Increases flexural strength Polypropylene fibres are used to enhance concrete’s resistance to heat exposure. Using these fibres means exposing concrete to temperatures of 600°C (1112°F) won’t affect its compressive strength. The more polypropylene fibres used in concrete, the better its resistance to flexural stress will be. However, as the fibre content is increased, the more unstable and hard-to-manipulate the mixture will become. As such, polypropylene fibres are used as concrete reinforcers mainly in demanding environments: Parks Roadways Public spaces Beaches Plastic fibre Increases adhesion of PET bonding mixture Increases tensile strength Improves ductility Increases flexural strength Plastic fibres are part of a major environmental concern. With the significant amount of plastic waste generated by our society, a considerable portion could be recycled into this type of fibre-reinforced concrete. In fact, simply adding 1.5% plastic fibres per concrete volume is ample to achieve an optimally reinforced mixture. However, plastic fibre-reinforced concrete does have a major downside: it lowers its compression strength. Therefore, to offset this particular drawback, additives are used, like metakaolin or silica fume. Carbon fibre Increases flexural strength Improves ductility Prevents weakening-induced degradation Strengthens load-bearing capacity Carbon fibres aren’t used independently. They’re used together with polymer concrete to create a type of concrete that’s known as CFRP (Carbon Fibre-Reinforced Polymers). While this type of concrete’s compression strength isn’t improved by carbon fibres, its flexural strength is literally doubled. CFRP is mainly used in environments in which concrete is subjected to harsh weather or pollutants. Structural Structural fibre-reinforced concrete (or fibre-reinforced concrete) is used to improve the mechanical strength of the concrete mixture, and at times can replace standard reinforcement steel. This unique characteristic is made possible due to its composition, which contains two types of fibres: Metallic fibres Macro-synthetic fibres It’s used to build: Foundations Footings Superstructures Columns Beams Slabs Walls When it’s used to completely replace reinforcement steel, fibre-reinforced concrete can speed up building processes, as the following doesn’t have to be done: Cutting rebar Securing rebar Installing shims Metallic Metallic fibres reinforce concrete in 3 distinct ways: Enhance compression strength Improve flexural strength Mitigate cracking The whole is obtained with a mixture consisting of only 3% steel fibres per concrete volume. One may be led to believe that the richer in steel fibres the concrete is, the stronger it is. Although this is true, the more steel fibres it contains, the less malleable it becomes. As such, one has to find the right balance between concrete strength and malleability. How do steel fibres reinforce concrete? Well, that’s rather straightforward. Steel fibres allow concrete to break apart in a ductile fashion, which differs from standard concrete cracking. For example, this steel fibre-reinforced concrete-specific characteristic means that concrete beams are more: Rigid Wear-resistant Shock-resistant Withstand energy absorption Ductile The same concept applies to steel fibre-reinforced concrete slabs. The latter can better withstand loads. However, steel fibres do have limitations. The bond between the fibres and the concrete can vary; it can range from a coefficient of 1.0 to 2.2, thereby doubling it.

4 min read

SoumissionRenovation.ca 26 Jul 2023

Everything to Know About MIG/MAG Welding

MIG/MAG welding, also known as gas-shielded arc metal welding, is a widely used welding technique in various industries. In this article, we will delve into the details of this welding process and explore why MIG/MAG welding is such a popular method. MIG/MAG Welding Definition Source: Canva MIG/MAG welding is a type of arc welding that’s also known as GMAW, which stands for Gas Metal Arc Welding. It’s basically a process during which an electric arc is produced between a metal welding wire fed through a torch to a welding piece. The electric power strategically melts both the piece of metal and the tip of the welding wire, creating a molten pool. To ensure the quality of the weld, a gas supply is used to shield the electrical arc from any airborne contaminants (oxygen, nitrogen, moisture) present at the worksite. Fundamentals Two gases are used: Inert gas, for MIG (Metal Inert Gas) Active gas, for MAG (Metal Active Gas) MIG welding is suitable for fusing delicate materials like aluminum or alloys that are sensitive to oxygen and nitrogen. MIG welding employs inert gases such as argon, which is a mixture of argon and helium. As for MAG welding, this method employs oxidants found on the surface of molten pools. The oxidation process is done through the presence of oxygen or carbon dioxide. However, these gases aren’t used in their pure state but mixed with shielding gases. They're active gases. How does MIG/MAG welding work? MIG/MAG welding has three different metal transfer methods. This type of welding uses the following modes: Short circuit (GMAW-S): Direct contact between the welding wire and the molten pool; Pulsed MIG: A droplet forms with each peak of the electrical output; Axial spray: Includes globular transfer (glob by glob), axial spraying (spattering), and a combo of the two. Furthermore, there are four types of welds classified according to their position: Flat weld Horizontal weld Vertical weld Overhead weld Different gas mixtures are available depending on the welding mode used, the type of weld being made, and the materials being worked on. They’re mostly made of argon, which benefits from being denser than air. Therefore, it can shield the molten pool better than helium since the latter is lighter than air. Adding oxygen (O2) or carbon dioxide (CO2) to argon basically yields the same result: Stabilizes the electric arc. Improves the look of the weld. The benefit of oxygen and carbon dioxide is that they don’t need as much force to be expelled from the torch as helium since they’re much denser than air. As for helium, it has a better thermal conductivity compared to argon. Therefore, it ensures better uniformity with the electric arc. Are you looking for general contractors for your renovation project? Fill in our form to be connected with top-rated contractors! What’s a MIG/MAG welding machine? Source: Canva A MIG/MAG welding machine essentially houses a transformer that adjusts a high voltage (575 V or 220 V) to a low amperage (20 to 50 amps) and a low voltage (16 V to 40V) to a high amperage (80 to 500 amps). Aside from the transformer’s purpose, a MIG/MAG welding machine also includes a current rectifier, which converts alternating current (AC) into direct current (DC). Why? To ensure the welding arc is stable and reaches the very high heat required for welding. Polarity is also inverted during this welding process. To adjust a welding machine’s current output, the welder can use either of these settings: Amperage Voltage The welding machine’s current output can be set by adjusting the welding wire feed speed, while the voltage can be adjusted directly on the machine. Changes in voltage will directly impact the length of the electrical arc. Some MIG/MAG welding machines also have a slope and inductance setting. The inductance is what controls the speed at which the current reaches amperage and voltage parameters set by the welder. MIG/MAG welding machines that lack a slope control feature come preset from the factory at 2 volts for 100 amps. However, increasing the slope allows for better control over low amperage in a short circuit mode. This mode is essential for two reasons: It won’t cut through thin material. It reduces spattering when starting the arc. Regarding inductance, it serves to prevent overheating or electrode explosions. In certain modes, such as axial spray transfer, it’s essential to have, low inductance settings to ensure proper and controlled metal transfer. Pros and Cons Source: Canva The MIG/MAG welding process has eight advantages: It allows for welding in various positions, including underwater, using submerged arc welding (SAW). Has a continuous electrode wire feed. No length restrictions for electrode wire. Suitable for welding all metals and alloys retailed in stores; Lack of slag; High metal deposition rate, higher than those of SMAW (shielded metal arc welding). The welding speed is very fast, also related to deposition rates. Deep welding penetration can be achieved using axial spray mode. However, this welding process also has a few downsides: The equipment can be complex to set up and relatively expensive. The system is very vulnerable to drafts that disrupt the shielding gas. Generates intense heat and a powerful electric arc.


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