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4 min read

What Type Of Water Heater Is Best For My Family?

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Plumbing

4 min read

What Type Of Water Heater Is Best For My Family?

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PlumbingInterior renovationsWhat Type Of Water Heater Is Best For My Family?

People don’t often think about their water heaters - that is, until the hot water stops flowing or the water heater is making noise.  Should you repair your old water heater?

You might be inclined to, but older units can need an excessive amount of repairs, making replacement a more viable option. What’s more, newer units are much more energy-efficient than older units, which can lead to a lot of savings over time.

You might be surprised to learn that there are a wide variety of water heaters available on the market today, from traditional storage heaters to tankless heaters. This guide will help you understand the differences between each type, as well as which type might be best for your particular needs.

The Types of Water Heaters

Water heaters can have different capacities, and they can be heated through a variety of means - chiefly, natural gas or electricity. The method you use to heat your water will have an impact on what type of heater you want to purchase. In most places, natural gas is less expensive to use than electricity, but this isn’t always the case.

Let’s start by looking at the classic - storage tank water heaters. In brief, these heaters store water that is heated by electricity or gas, and they typically range from 75 to 300 litres (20 to 80 gallons) in capacity. When you turn on your hot water tap, water exits from the top of the heater and goes through the piping to your tap; cold water then replaces the hot water. The biggest problem with this type of water heater is standby heat loss; when you’re not using water and the element is off, heat will dissipate out of the heater.

Tankless water heaters are the new kids on the block. By virtue of being tankless, they’re much smaller than traditional storage tank heaters, and they’re not susceptible to standby heat loss. They superheat water at an incredibly rapid pace - think of them as on-demand water heaters.

Heat pump heaters are an interesting new player in the water heater market. They’re incredibly energy efficient, drawing heat from the air to heat your water - they work a little bit like an air conditioner. They’re quite tall, and they’re not great for cold climates.

Solar water heaters are a particularly green solution - they absorb thermal energy from the sun to heat your water. They’re particularly popular in sunny, warm regions. Rainy places or areas where it gets quite cold aren’t optimal for these. That said, heating your water through the power of the sun is incredibly green and energy-efficient. These models usually come with back-up power generators for those cloudy days.

Finally, there are condensing water heaters. In short, these heaters act like conventional gas-heated storage tank heaters, but with reclamation devices that allow them to use flue gases that would otherwise be wasted, to heat the water. This makes them more energy efficient.

Which Water Heater is Right For You?

First, let’s look at how many people you have at home. In homes where you expect a lot of hot water use, you’ll be best off with a tank heater of some kind. Tankless heaters only heat water on demand, so when demand is too high, they’ll be overburdened, which would mean you’d have to buy multiple tankless heaters. That can get pretty pricey.

Homes that have their water heated primarily through electricity are often not the best-suited for tankless heaters, either. You might need a costly upgrade to your electrical system to get the tankless unit installed.

Have a relatively small household with gas heating? Tankless is probably the way to go. It can save you a tremendous amount of energy, and you’ll never end up taking an unexpected, cold shower.

Are you in a region with a lot of sun and heat? Heat pump tanks and solar tanks can both be excellent options. For heat pump tanks, you must have sufficient clearance in the space your water heater was installed in, usually requiring 2 metres (7 feet) or more. In cold climates, neither solar nor heat pump tanks are viable.

Living in a cold climate with gas heating? You’d do well to get a condensing water heater - they’re extra fuel-efficient. Keep in mind that they tend to have a higher upfront cost than traditional tank heaters. 

Conventional tank heaters still have their place - they’re great if your home is heated electrically, you don’t want as much upfront cost, and/or you don’t plan on staying in your home for very long. Keep in mind that fuel efficiency pays greater dividends the longer you stay in your home.

The capacity of your system will change substantially depending on the size of your household. RONA created an excellent guide to water heater sizing to help you determine what capacity you’ll need in your house.

Bet you didn’t know there was so much to know about water heaters! Now when you go shopping, you’ll have a breadth of knowledge that will surprise even seasoned sales associates!

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Last modified 2023-05-09

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How to Choose the Right Bathroom Plumbing Fixtures

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Water Supply Pipe Insulation: A Necessary Measure

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As such, you definitely have to take a moment to corner to issue before it becomes a burden. Hot water copper piping is responsible for thermal losses in walls and under floors. Hot water supply pipe insulation protects against extreme temperatures. Doing so is also beneficial when it comes to reducing pipe condensation, especially in enclosed spaces, such as attics, store rooms, and finished basements. The question remains, What’s the best type of insulation for hot water supply copper pipes? We’ve done a bit of research in regard to this matter to give you the best possible answer. There are four types of insulation materials that can be effectively used with copper water supply pipes. These are: Rubber insulation; Polyethylene foam; Fibreglass insulation; Mineral wool insulation. Keep in mind that pipe insulation comes in many different forms. No matter the insulation material you choose, you’ll be able to find such materials pre-shaped, in cylinders, to perfectly fit around a pipe. Most pipe insulation materials are less than 10% efficient. Overall, you’ll note that most of these insulation materials are rather cheap, though some are a bit more expensive. The best material to use will naturally depend on the size of your hot water pipes and your budget. Are you looking for experts for your insulation project? Fill in this form to be connected with top-rated contractors! Pipe Insulation Pricing Source: Canva You can purchase pipe insulation materials from your local hardware store or in large arts and crafts stores. When purchasing, make sure that you have the pipe dimensions on hand to only buy the necessary amount needed to cover your piping network. Pipe insulation prices vary depending on the type of insulation material used, as well as the pipe’s length and circumference. For example, a 1-inch thick, six feet long fibreglass insulator can cost about $6, however, a foam insulator of the same size can cost about $8. The price can also vary depending on the pipe itself, whether it supplies hot or cold water. Albeit pipe insulation materials can be quite a financial investment, the benefits greatly outweigh any downside. The total cost, per linear foot, for pipe insulation materials, is between $1.10 to $11, which includes the materials ($0.20 to $3 per linear foot) and labour costs ($0.90 to $8 per linear foot). Consequently, for 100 feet of piping, you could pay anywhere between $110 to $1,100. Once again, the price ultimately depends on the type of insulation material you choose. Although hot water copper pipes don’t necessarily need to be insulated, doing so does have its advantages. Listed below are the most important. Benefits of Temperature Regulation Note that insulating indoor and outdoor piping reduces thermal losses, which is especially important in regions where extreme temperatures are a commonality. Household pipes are responsible for water flow throughout the entire dwelling, which means that the temperature of said pipes can vary at any given time. Stunts the inefficient use of energy Pipe insulation very much decreases the inefficient use of energy. You can even note a depletion of your energy-related costs and a slower wait time for hot water delivery to your bathtubs and sinks. Reduces condensation Condensation naturally occurs when the external surface of plumbing pipes is colder than that of the ambient air. To lessen the chances of condensation forming on pipes, adding insulation around the outer section of the pipes is a must. Without insulation, metal pipes can leak, corrode, and rust. Adding pipe insulation is also a useful must-have in other areas of your home, like in the laundry room or bathroom, ensuring no injuries can occur upon skin contact with very warm or very cold pipes. Shields from a bursting pipe If you live in an area that’s subject to extremely cold weather during the wintertime, surely you’ve heard stories about pipes bursting, or you’ve experienced it first-hand. Adding insulation around your hot water supply pipes can reduce the risks of said pipes bursting. The layer of insulation protects the pipes from freezing and allows them to resist cold temperatures for longer periods of time. Slight soundproofing of pipes It’s a known fact that plumbing can, at times, emit strange noises with debris and water flow. Most often, the noise is a direct result of mismeasured piping, as pipe networks must be installed according to a specific slope. 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Cynthia Laferrière 06 Aug 2022

Everything About Plumbing Vents

The sheer size of a home's plumbing system can make plumbing issues seem rather complex. There are pipes in the basement, drains outside, bits of pipe coming out on the roof, valves, and elbow joints under the sinks... So, how does one tackle the mysterious rotten smell, the slow-draining sink, the empty toilet tank, and the gurgling monster living in the pipes? Well, there's no need to get poetic about it; a damaged, improperly installed, or clogged plumbing vent could account for all of the above. What’s a Plumbing Vent? Also known as an air admittance valve (AAV) or drain-waste-vent system (DWV), a plumbing vent is an integral part of the drainage system that disposes of household wastewater. Specifically, it's the portion of the system that vents the pipes to ensure that the sewer fumes stay, well…in the sewer. Plumbing vents ensure that there's a proper water flow without so much as creating a void in the p-trap (the part of the pipe under your sink that forms a U shape). When the p-trap lacks a minimum amount of water, noxious odours and fumes, including methane, are released. Basically, a plumbing vent levels out the pressure in the pipes, forcing air behind the draining water, thus preventing gases from entering the home and keeping the pipes in good condition. Normally, the drain pipes are routed through the walls, towards an exterior-leading vertical ventilation system. However, in some cases, this simple configuration is more difficult to achieve. Consider, for example, a sink embedded in a kitchen island. In such cases, small automatic discharge vents, which are commonly found in hardware stores and only used as a last resort, come into play. They're affixed directly to the drain pipe, opened while the air pressurizes the water, and closed when the flow is complete, keeping the trap well drained. Source: Flickr Problems Related to a Faulty Vent Numerous issues can arise if: The vent is incorrectly positioned; The model installed is too small; The exterior cap isn’t sealed properly; Something is obstructing the vent (branches, leaves, nests, ice). Keep an eye out for the early warning signs of such problems before the repercussions take over your home and completely clog your pipes. If you notice moisture build-up on your ceilings, check your vents before becoming overwhelmed by repair costs associated with a suspected cracked roof. If your home is developing a foul odour, then your plumbing vents may be clogged. If you notice that the water is draining slowly after bathing or washing dishes, it could be something more than hair or food scraps clogging the drain. If using drain cleaners fails to clear the clogged drain, consider inspecting your vents. If abnormal, gurgle-like or muffled noises are emanating from your pipes as water flows through, poor airflow might be to blame. A lack of air pressure caused by clogged vents affects the water level in the trap, therefore, when flushing, your toilet tank doesn't properly refill. When in doubt, call in an expert. Do you have a plumbing renovation project in mind? Fill in this form to be connected with top-rated contractors! Automatic Drain Vent: Price & Installation In most hardware stores, like Canac, Canadian Tire, Rona, and Réno-Dépôt, one can find the necessary tools and devices. Prices vary depending on size and use. A 1- to 2-inch ABS automatic drain vent meant to fit under a sink, if a conventional vent can't be used, costs between $4 and $20. On the other hand, an outdoor steel wall vent with a cap and gasket can run around $30. Source: Flickr Hire an expert to install an exterior or a roof-mounted vent. Assuming that you need to change the vent below the sinks or the ones accessed during renovations, here’s a run-down of all the materials required and the steps to follow. Tools: Vent; A container/bucket to collect water; A pipe cutter or metal saw, depending on the plumbing system’s materials; Locking pliers; Measuring tape; Cement and sealant tape (silicon or Teflon); PVC primer; Joints, traps, and pipes to complete the work depending on the extent of the project. First off, place a bucket or container under the sink to avoid creating a mess, unscrew the nuts and bolts holding the drain trap in place, and remove the elbow joint. Get a hold of a sanitary tee (T) and pipes. Depending on the configuration of your installation, you may have to trim the pipe a bit. Note that the bottom part of the vent should be about 4 inches from the top of the trap (maximum 30 inches), so measure your pipe extension accordingly. Connect all the components without glueing them to make sure everything fits as it should, and if necessary, make any adjustments. When everything looks as it should, with a marker, label where everything lines up (pipes with joints). Take the pieces apart, apply the glue, then hook up the pieces before linking the whole thing to the existing piping under the sink. Install the vent at the top of the vertical pipe as per the manufacturer's instructions and apply sealant tape before screwing on the nuts and bolts. Next, secure the trap by sliding the elbow joint onto the drain fitting and inserting the pipe arm into the T-joint. Screw on all the nuts. Lastly, test it out by filling up the sink with water and removing the stopper to see if there are any leaks in the wastewater flow. Source: Sketch made in Paint

7 min read

Cynthia Laferrière 23 Apr 2022

Check Valves: Models & Workings

Do you remember that famous old folktale your grandparents would tell you about, the one that probably made it hard for you to comfortably use the toilet without first looking in the bowl, on the off chance that a sewer rat was just wading in there, ready to nip your behind? Let’s say that, nowadays, it’s highly unlikely that such a situation could happen, since household sewer pipes are now fitted with check valves, also known as backflow preventers. In the 21st century, it’s all the more common to have, maintain, or change such devices to prevent water leaks in our basements, especially when knowing that municipalities aren’t made responsible for any damage caused to properties in the event of a sewer backflow. Some people also worry about climate change resulting in heavier and more frequent rainfall and want to make sure that they have the appropriate check valve in place. Hence why having check valves in your basement is all the more desirable. In any case, if you’re a homeowner or a property renter living in proximity to solid ground, it’s best to add a clause in your home assurance contract that covers such mishaps that are totally out of your control and check whether the current installations are up to code (CSA standard certified and in compliance with article 2.4.6.4 of the Quebec Construction Code). How Does a Check Valve Work? Source : Canva In the event of heavy rains or when the snow melts really fast come springtime, there’s a good chance that the collector sewers in your municipality aren’t able to keep up. When they overflow, they’ll leak through the piping, floor drains, and sanitary devices in your home. This exact problem can occur as a result of a break or an obstruction in underground canalization. Therefore, to prevent greywater, that’s potentially a carrier of malodorous smells and bacteria, from destroying your belongings and resulting in a loss of time, money, and energy, installing check valves on your drainage pipes is a must. Note that retaining basins, sump pits, and running traps found beneath street level must also be fitted with check valves. The same goes for household sanitary appliances located beneath a septic tank’s overflow mark. The check valve principle is rather simple and logical. Simply said, it controls the direction in which the water flows through canalization, with the main goal being that the water coming from your household flows outward instead of having, on the other hand, outside water leaking into your home. Some valves solely shield one sanitary device, like a toilet; in such a case, multiple valves will be required. Others can be fitted to a pipe or connected to numerous other household apparatuses. Given that, naturally, they’ll be various ways to install a check valve depending on the type of property in question. Types of Check Valves Photo: Flickr Normally Closed Check Valve Its shutter, basically the little flap or valve, is affixed by its top section and hangs downward, and can solely move one way. Given its position, it allows that when the toilet is flushed, the water must push past the flap to drain. On the other hand, if the water is coming in from outside the household, it’ll flap against the valve instead of pushing through and flowing freely through the piping. This type of valve still has its downsides. Since it’s always in a closed position, unless it’s being pushed open by household greywaters, it restricts airflow in the piping network. It’s usually installed in hard-to-reach areas, making cleaning the device a rather complex endeavour, more so, its shutter is prone to damage resulting from the cable used during the maintenance process. Furthermore, the flap is conducive to a buildup of residue that could clog the valve or hinder its efficiency in the event that a city sewer backflows. For these reasons, this model is more often found beneath older homes, having been installed on the main drain line according to former building codes. Normally Open Check Valve Its shutter is, opposed to the previously-mentioned model, affixed by the bottom section. The flap is thus laid flat awaiting outside water flow to rise and block the way. As such, airflow is not blocked and provides easy access to maintenance tools. This model is favoured for single-family homes. Squeeze-In Check Valve Mostly used for floor drains, and that, solely if permitted by the municipality. An elastomeric ring and brass plates maintain the device in place inside the pipe, right beneath the drain’s cover. Inflatable Check Valve Controlled electronically, the device will inflate and block the pipe once water backflow is detected. It doesn’t require any maintenance. Locating the Check Valve Source : Canva First off, to know whether your home has a check valve, look in your basement. If so, there will be a round, twist-off lid at floor level. However, if you have a dewatering pump, look around the latter. When in doubt, or if the plumbing is more complex, ask the previous homeowners or call in professionals. To avoid ending up with your neighbour’s greywater all over your living room floor, make sure your home is fitted with good condition, standard check valves. Do you have a plumbing renovation project in mind? Fill in this form to be connected with top-rated contractors! Cost of a Check Valve Source : Canva There are numerous factors to consider when trying to gauge the cost of installing a check valve. For example, based on the chosen model, expect to pay between $40 to $200 per valve. Think about the number of valves needed as well as the plumber’s rate. Will the work require additional fees, such as those related to digging to access the current check valves and then to backfill? Your best bet is to inquire prior to jumpstarting the work to save money. If you’re looking to go forward with a renovation or an inspection, you first must call a plumbing contractor that’s a member in good standing with the CMMTQ (Corporation des maîtres mécaniciens en tuyauterie du Québec). In Montréal, there’s a program that was set up to put you in touch with certified inspectors that’ll ensure your valves are in good working order and located in the right place. Simply dial 311. It’s of utmost importance to deal with qualified professionals if your home is older or has a flat roof. The original fittings might combine rainwater with wastewater or the recommended valve happens to be an open check valve type, which could make the whole process a lot more difficult should the person not have the right tools on hand. Do you have a check valve project in mind? Check Valve Maintenance Check valve maintenance is best done once a year, ideally at the end of spring; following the freeze/thaw weathering period, thus after the heaviest water flow inside your pipes. The purpose of maintenance is to ensure that no debris is limiting the valve’s flap from opening and closing, and in the event that a metal valve is used, to check the overall corrosive state of the device. For valves located behind walls, underneath a raised floor, or in the ceiling, you can make a removable panel to easily access the device. If you decide to check the device and carry out the maintenance yourself, here are a few useful tips: Wear gloves; suffice it to say that you’re dealing with greywater, a liquid in which bacteria grows and could be potentially harmful to your health. Remove the access cover or stopper by unscrewing it or unlocking it. Remove the flap to clean and check the condition of the rubber gasket. Obviously, if it’s broken or damaged, swap it out for a new one. Thoroughly clean the hinge and put the valve back in place. Make sure that it’s positioned correctly and put everything else back together. Note that there are some more recent models with a built-in cleaning system.


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